A brief Explanation of the basic Astronomical
factors which produce tides and tidal currents
Chapter 1
Introduction
The word "tides" is a generic term used to define the alternating
rise and fall in sea level with respect to the land, produced by the
gravitational attraction of the moon and the sun. To a much smaller
extent, tides also occur in large lakes, the atmosphere, and within
the solid crust of the earth, acted upon by these same gravitational
forces of the moon and sun. Additional nonastronomical factors such
as configuration of the coastline, local depth of the water,
ocean-floor topography, and other hydrographic and meteorological
influences may play an important role in altering the range,
interval between high and low water, an times of arrival of the
tides.
The most familiar evidence of the tides along our seashores is the
observed recurrence of high and low water - usually, but not always,
twice daily. The term tide correctly refers only to such a
relatively short-period, astronomically induced vertical change in
the height of the sea surface (exclusive of wind-actuated waves and
swell); the expression tidal current relates to accompanying
periodic horizontal movement of the ocean water, both near the coast
and offshore (but as distinct from the continuous, stream-flow type
of ocean current).
Knowledge of the times, heights, and extent of inflow and outflow of
tidal waters is of importance in a wide range of practical
applications such as the following: Navigation through intracoastal
waterways, and within estuaries, bays, and harbors; work on harbor
engineering projects, such as the construction of bridges, docks,
breakwaters, and deep-water channels; the establishment of standard
chart datums for hydrography and for demarcation of a base line or
"legal coastline" for fixing offshore territorial limits both on the
sea surface and on the submerged lands of the Continental Shelf;
provision of information necessary for underwater demolition
activities and other military engineering uses; and the furnishing
of data indispensable to fishing, boating, surfing, and a
considerable variety of related water sport activities.
Chapter 2
The Astronomical Tide-Producing Forces: General Considerations
At the surface of the earth, the earth's force of gravitational
attraction acts in a direction inward toward its center of mass, and
thus holds the ocean water confined to this surface. However, the
gravitational forces of the moon and sun also act externally upon
the earth's ocean waters. These external forces are exerted as
tide-producing, or so-called "tractive" forces. Their effects are
superimposed upon the earth's gravitational force and act to draw
the ocean waters to positions on the earth's surface directly
beneath these respective celestial bodies (i.e., towards the "sublunar"
and "subsolar" points). High tides are produced in the ocean waters
by the "heaping" action resulting from the horizontal flow of water
toward two regions of the earth representing positions of maximum
attraction of combined lunar and solar gravitational forces. Low
tides are created by a compensating maximum withdrawal of water from
regions around the earth midway between these two humps. The
alternation of high and low tides is caused by the daily (or
diurnal) rotation of the earth with respect to these two tidal humps
and two tidal depressions. The changing arrival time of any two
successive high or low tides at any one location is the result of
numerous factors later to be discussed.Origin of the Tide-Raising
Forces
To all outward appearances, the moon revolves around the earth, but
in actuality, the moon and earth revolve together around their
common center of mass, or gravity. The two astronomical bodies are
held together by gravitational attraction, but are simultaneously
kept apart by an equal and opposite centrifugal force produced by
their individual revolutions around the center-of-mass of the
earth-moon system. This balance of forces in orbital revolution
applies to the center-of-mass of the individual bodies only. At the
earth's surface, an imbalance between these two forces results in
the fact that there exists, on the hemisphere of the earth turned
toward the moon, a net (or differential) tide-producing force which
acts in the direction of the moon's gravitational attraction, or
toward the center of the moon. On the side of the earth directly
opposite the moon, the net tide-producing force is in the direction
of the greater centrifugal force, or away from the moon.
Similar differential forces exist as the result of the revolution of
the center-of-mass of the earth around the center-of-mass of the
earth-sun system.
Chapter 3
Detailed Explanation of the Differential Tide Producing Forces
The tide-raising forces at the earth's surface thus result from a
combination of basic forces: (1) the force of gravitation exerted by
the moon (and sun) upon the earth; and (2) centrifugal forces
produced by the revolutions of the earth and moon (and earth and
sun) around their common center-of-gravity (mass) or barycenter. The
effects of those forces acting in the earth-moon system will here be
discussed, with the recognition that a similar force complex exists
in the earth-sun system.
With respect to the center of mass of the earth or the center of
mass of the moon, the above two forces always remain in balance
(i.e., equal and opposite). In consequence, the moon revolves in a
closed orbit around the earth, without either escaping from, or
falling into the earth - and the earth likewise does not collide
with the moon. However, at local points on, above, or within the
earth, these two forces are not in equilibrium, and oceanic,
atmospheric, and earth tides are the result.
FIGURE 1
The Monthly Revolution of the Earth and Moon Around the Barycenter
of the Earth-Moon System
This revolution is responsible for a centrifugal force component (Fc)
necessary to the production of the tides.
(Note that the earth revolves around G, but does not rotate around
G. There is no monthly rotation of the earth as it revolves around
the barycenter such that the same point on the earth's surface
always faces the moon.)
The center of revolution of this motion of the earth and moon around
their common center-of-mass lies at a point approximately 1,068
miles beneath the earth's surface, on the side toward the moon, and
along a line connecting the individual centers-of-mass of the earth
and moon. (see G, Fig. 1) The center-of-mass of the earth describes
an orbit (E1, E2, E3..) around the center-of-mass of the earth-moon
system (G) just as the center-of-mass of the moon describes its own
monthly orbit (M1, M2, M3..) around this same point.
1. The Effect of Centrifugal Force. It is this little known aspect
of the moon's orbital motion which is responsible for one of the two
force components creating the tides. As the earth and moon whirl
around this common center-of-mass, the centrifugal force produced is
always directed away from the center of revolution. All points in or
on the surface of the earth acting as a coherent body acquire this
component of centrifugal force. And, since the center-of-mass of the
earth is always on the opposite side of this common center of
revolution from the position of the moon, the centrifugal force
produced at any point in or on the earth will always be directed
away from the moon. This fact is indicated by the common direction
of the arrows (representing the centrifugal force Fc) at points A,
C, and B in Fig. 1, and the thin arrows at these same points in Fig.
2.
It is important to note that the centrifugal force produced by the
daily rotation of the earth on it axis must be completely
disregarded in tidal theory. This element plays no part in the
establishment of the differential tide-producing forces.
While space does not permit here, it may be graphically demonstrated
that, for such a case of revolution without rotation as above
enumerated, any point on the earth will describe a circle which will
have the same radius as the radius of revolution of the
center-of-mass of the earth around the barycenter. Thus, in Fig. 1,
the magnitude of the centrifugal force produced by the revolution of
the earth and moon around their common center of mass (G) is the
same at point A or B or any other point on or beneath the earth's
surface. Any of these values is also equal to the centrifugal force
produced at the center-of-mass (C) by its revolution around the
barycenter. This fact is indicated in Fig. 2 by the equal lengths of
the thin arrows (representing the centrifugal force Fc) at points A,
C, and B, respectively.
2. The Effect of Gravitational Force. While the effect of this
centrifugal force is constant for all positions on the earth, the
effect of the external gravitational force produced by another
astronomical body may be different at different positions on the
earth because the magnitude of the gravitational force exerted
varies with the distance of the attracting body. According to
Newton's Universal Law of Gravity, gravitational force varies
inversely as the second power of the distance from the attracting
body. Thus, in the theory of the tides, a variable influence is
introduced based upon the different distances of various positions
on the earth's surface from the moon's center-of-mass. The relative
gravitational attraction (Fg) exerted by the moon at various
positions on the earth is indicated in Fig. 2 by arrows heavier than
those representing the centrifugal force components.
3. The Net or Differential Tide-Raising Forces: Direct and Opposite
Tides. It has been emphasized above that the centrifugal force
under consideration results from the revolution of the
center-of-mass of the earth around the center-of-mass of the
earth-moon system, and that this centrifugal force is the same
anywhere on the earth. Since the individual centers-of-mass of the
earth and moon remain in equilibrium at constant distances from the
barycenter, the centrifugal force acting upon the center of the
earth (C) as the result of their common revolutions must be equal
and opposite to the gravitational force exerted by the moon on the
center of the earth. This fact is indicated at point C in Fig. 2 by
the thin and heavy arrows of equal length, pointing in opposite
directions. The net result of this circumstance is that the
tide-producing force (Ft) at the earth's center is zero.
At point A in Fig. 2, approximately 4,000 miles nearer to the moon
than is point C, the force produced by the moon's gravitational pull
is considerably larger than the gravitational force at C due to the
moon. The smaller lunar gravitational force at C just balances the
centrifugal force at C. Since the centrifugal force at A is equal to
that at C, the greater gravitational force at A must also be larger
than the centrifugal force there. The net tide-producing force at A
obtained by taking the difference between the gravitational and
centrifugal forces is in favor of the gravitational component - or
outward toward the moon. The tide-raising force at point A is
indicated in Fig. 2 by the double arrow extending vertically from
the earth's surface toward the moon. The resulting tide produced on
the side of the earth toward the moon is know as the direct tide.
At point B, on the opposite side of the earth from the moon and
about 4,000 miles farther away from the moon than is point C, the
moon's gravitational force is considerably less than at point C. At
point C, the centrifugal force is in balance with a gravitational
force which is greater than at B. The centrifugal force at B is the
same as that at C. Since gravitational force is less at B than at C,
it follows that the centrifugal force exerted at B must be greater
than the gravitational force exerted by the moon at B. The resultant
tide-producing force at this point is, therefore, directed away from
the earth's center and opposite to the position of the moon. This
force is indicated by the double-shafted arrow at point B. The tide
produced in this location halfway around the earth from the sublunar
point, coincidentally with the direct tide, is know as the opposite
tide.
FIGURE 2
The Combination of Forces of Lunar Origin Producing the Tides
(A similar complex of forces exists in the Earth-Sun system)
4. The Tractive Force. It is significant that the influence of the
moon's gravitational attraction superimposes its effect upon, but
does not overcome, the effect's of the earth's own gravity.
Earth-gravity, although always present, plays no direct part in the
tide-producing action. The tide-raising force exerted at a point on
the earth's surface by the moon at its average distance from the
earth (238,855 miles) is only about one 9-millionth part of the
force of earth-gravity exerted toward its center (3,963 miles from
the surface). The tide raising force of the moon, is, therefore,
entirely insufficient to "lift" the waters of the earth physically
against this far greater pull of earth's gravity. Instead, the tides
are produced by that component of the tide-raising force of the moon
which acts to draw the waters of the earth horizontally over its
surface toward the sublunar and antipodal points. Since the
horizontal component is not opposes in any way to gravity and can,
therefore, act to draw particles of water freely over the earth's
surface, it becomes the effective force in generating tides.
At any point on the earth's surface, the tidal force produced by the
moon's gravitational attraction may be separated or "resolved" into
two components of force - one in the vertical, or perpendicular to
the earth's surface - the other horizontal or tangent to the earth's
surface. This second component, know as the tractive ("drawing")
component of force is the actual mechanism for producing the tides.
The force is zero at the points on the earth's surface directly
beneath and on the opposite side of the earth from the moon (since
in these positions, the lunar gravitational force is exerted in the
vertical - i.e., opposed to, and in the direction of the
earth-gravity, respectively). Any water accumulated in these
locations by tractive flow from other points on the earth's surface
tends to remain in a stable configuration, or tidal "bulge".
Thus there exists an active tendency for water to be drawn from
other points on the earth's surface toward the sublunar point (A, in
Fig. 2) and its antipodal point (B, in Fig. 2) and to be heaped at
these points in two tidal bulges. Within a band around the earth at
all points 90o from the sublunar point, the horizontal or tractive
force of the moon's gravitation is also zero, since the entire
tide-producing force is directed vertically inward. There is,
therefore, a tendency for the formation of a stable depression here.
The words "tend to" and "tendency for" employed in several usages
above in connection with tide-producing forces are deliberately
chosen since, as will be seen below, the actual representation of
the tidal forces is that of an idealized "force envelope" with which
the rise and fall of the tides are influenced by many factors.
5. The Tidal Force Envelope. If the ocean waters were completely to
respond to the directions and magnitudes of these tractive forces at
various points on the surface of the earth, a mathematical figure
would be formed having the shape of a prolate spheroid. The longest
(major) axis of the spheroid extended towards and directly away from
the moon, and the shortest (minor) axis is center along, at right
angle to, the major axis. The two tidal humps and two tidal
depressions are represented in this force envelope by the directions
of the major axis and rotated minor axis of the spheroid,
respectively. From a purely theoretical point of view, the daily
rotation of the solid earth with respect to these two tidal humps
and two depressions may be conceived to be the cause of the tides.
As the earth rotates once in each 24 hours, one would ideally expect
to find a high tide followed by a low tide at the same place 6 hours
later; then a second high tide after 12 hours, a second low tide 18
hours later, and finally a return to high water at the expiration of
24 hours. Such would nearly be the case if a smooth, continent-free
earth were covered to a uniform depth with water, if the tidal
envelope of the moon alone were being considered, if the positions
of the moon and sun were fixed and invariable in distance and
relative orientation with respect to the earth, and if there were no
other accelerating or retarding influences affecting the motions of
the waters of the earth. Such, in actuality, is far from the
situation which exists.
First, the tidal force envelope produced by the moon's gravitational
attraction is accompanied by a tidal force envelope of considerably
smaller amplitude produced by the sun. The tidal force exerted by
the sun is a composite of the sun's gravitational attraction and a
centrifugal force component created by the revolution of the earth's
center-of-mass around the center-of-mass of the earth-sun system, in
an exactly analogous manner to the earth-moon relationship. The
position of this force envelope shifts with the relative orbital
position of the earth in respect to the sun. Because of the great
differences between the average distances of the moon (238,855
miles) and sun (92,900,000 miles) from the earth, the tide producing
force of the moon is approximately 2.5 times that of the sun.
Second, there exists a wide range of astronomical variables in the
production of the tides caused by the changing distances of the moon
from the earth, the earth from the sun, the angle which the moon in
its orbit makes with the earth's equator, the superposition of the
sun's tidal envelope of forces upon that caused by the moon, the
variable phase relationships of the moon, etc. Some of the principle
types of tides resulting from these purely astronomical influences
are describe below.
FIGURE 3
The Phase Inequality: Spring and Neap Tides
The gravitational attractions (and resultant tidal force envelopes)
produced by the Moon and Sun reinforce each other at times of new
and full moon to increase the range of the tides, and counteract
each other at the first and third quarters to reduce the tidal
range.
Chapter 4
Variations in the Range of the Tides: Tidal Inequalities
As will be shown in Fig. 6, the difference in the height, in feet,
between consecutive height and low tides occurring at a given place
is known as the range. The range of the tides at any location is
subject to many variable factors. Those influences of astronomical
origin will first be described.
1. Lunar Phase Effect: Spring and Neap Tides. It has been noted
above that the gravitational forces of both the moon and sun act
upon the waters of the earth. It is obvious that, because of the
moon's changing position with respect to the earth and sun (Fig. 3)
during the monthly cycle of phases (29.53 days) the gravitational
attraction of moon and sun may variously act along a common line or
at changing angles relative to each other.
When the moon is at new phase and full phase (both positions being
called syzygy) the gravitational attractions of the moon and sun act
to reinforce each other. Since the resultant or combined tidal force
is also increased, the observed high tides are higher and low tides
are lower than average. This means that the tidal range is greater
at all locations which display a consecutive high and low water.
Such greater-than-average tides resulting at the syzygy positions of
the moon are know as spring tides - a term which merely implies a
"welling up" of the water and bears no relationship to the season of
the year.
At first- and third-quarter phases (quadrature) of the moon, the
gravitational attractions of the moon and sun upon the waters of the
earth are exerted at right angles to each other. Each force tends in
part to counteract the other. In the tidal force envelope
representing these combined forces, both maximum and minimum forces
are reduced. High tides are lower and low tides are higher than
average. Such tides of diminished range are called neap tides, from
a Greek word meaning "scanty".
2. Parallax Effects (Moon and Sun). Since the moon follows an
elliptical path (Fig. 4), the distance between the earth and moon
will vary throughout the month by about 31,000 miles. The moon's
tide-producing force acting on the earth's waters will change in
inverse proportion to the third power of the distance between the
earth and moon, in accordance with the previously mentioned
variation of Newton's Law of Gravitation. Once each month, when the
moon is closest to the earth (perigee), the tide-generating forces
will be higher than usual, thus producing above-average ranges in
the tides. Approximately two weeks later, when the moon (at apogee)
is farthest from the earth, the lunar tide-raising force will be
smaller, and the tidal ranges will be less than average. Similarly,
in the earth-sun system, when the earth is closest to the sun
(perihelion), about January 2 of each year, the tidal ranges will be
enhanced, and when the earth is farthest from the sun (aphelion),
around July 2, the tidal ranges will be reduced.
FIGURE 4
The Lunar Parallax and Solar Parallax Inequalities
Both the Moon and the Earth revolve in elliptical orbits and the
distances from their centers of attraction vary. Increased
gravitational influences and tide-raising forces are produced when
the Moon is at position of perigee, its closest approach to the
Earth (once each month) or the Earth is at perihelion, its closest
approach to the Sun (once each year). This diagram also shows the
possible coincidence of perigee with perihelion to produce tides of
augmented range.
When perigee, perihelion, and either the new or full moon occur at
approximately the same time, considerably increased tidal ranges
result. When apogee, aphelion, and the first- or third-quarter moon
coincide at approximately the same time, considerably reduced tidal
ranges will normally occur.
3. Lunar Declination Effects: The Diurnal Inequality. The plane of
the moon's orbit is inclined only about 5o to the plane of the
earth's orbit (the ecliptic) and thus the moon monthly revolution
around the earth remains very close to the ecliptic. The ecliptic is
inclined 23.5o to the earth's equator, north and south of which the
sun moves once each half year to produce the seasons. In similar
fashion, the moon, in making a revolution around the earth once each
month, passes from a position of maximum angular distance north of
the equator to a position of maximum angular distance south of the
equator during each half month. (Angular distance perpendicularly
north and south of the celestial equator is termed declination.)
twice each month, the moon crosses the equator. In Fig. 5, this
condition is shown by the dashed position of the moon. The
corresponding tidal force envelope due to the moon is depicted, in
profile, by the dashed ellipse.
FIGURE 5
The Moon's Declination Effect (Change in Angle With Respect to the
Equator) and the Diurnal Inequality; Semidiurnal, Mixed, and Diurnal
Tides
A north-south cross-section through the Earth's center; the ellipse
represents a meridian section through the tidal force envelope
produced by the Moon.
Since the points A and A' lie along the major axis of this ellipse,
the height of the high tide represented at A is the same as that
which occurs as this point rotates to position A' some 12 hours
later. When the moon is over the equator - or at certain other
force-equalizing declinations - the two high tides and two low tides
on a give day are at similar height at any location. Successive high
and low tides are then also nearly equally spaced in time, and occur
twice daily. (See top diagram in Fig. 6.) This is known as
semidiurnal type of tides.
However, with he changing angular distance of the moon above or
below the equator (represented by the position of the small solid
circle in Fig. 5) the tidal force envelope produced by the moon is
canted, and difference between the heights of two daily tides of the
same phase begin to occur. variations in the heights of the tides
resulting from the changes in the declination angle of the moon an
in the corresponding lines of gravitational force action give rise
to a phenomenon known as the diurnal inequality.
In Fig. 5, point B is beneath a bulge in the tidal envelope.
One-half day later, at point B' it is again beneath the bulge, but
the height of the tide is obviously not as great as at B. This
situation gives rise to a twice-daily tide displaying unequal
heights in successive high or low waters, or in both pairs of tides.
This type of tide, exhibiting a strong diurnal inequality, is known
as a mixed tide. (See the middle diagram in Fig. 6.)
Finally, as depicted in Fig. 5, the point C is seen to lie beneath a
portion of the tidal force envelope. One-half day later, however, as
this point rotates to position C', it is seen to lie above the force
envelope. At this location, therefore, the tidal forces present
produce only one high water and one low water each day. The
resultant diurnal type of tide is shown in the bottom diagram of
Fig. 6.
FIGURE 6
Principal Types of Tides
Showing the Moon's declinational effect in production of
semidiurnal, mixed, and diurnal tides.
Chapter 5
Factors Influencing the Local Heights and Times of Arrival of the
Tides
It is noteworthy in Fig. 6 that any one cycle of the tides is
characterized by a definite time regularity as well as the
recurrence of the cyclical pattern. However, continuing observations
at coastal stations will reveal - in addition to the previously
explained variations in the heights of successive tides of the same
phase - noticeable differences in their successive time of
occurrence. The aspects of regularity in the tidal curves are
introduced by harmonic motions of the earth and moon. The variations
noted both in observed heights of the tides and in their times of
occurrence are the result of many factors, some of which have been
discussed in the preceding section. Other influences will now be
considered. The earth rotates on its axis (from one meridian transit
of the "mean" sun until the next) in 24 hours. But as the earth
rotates beneath the envelope of tidal forces produced by the moon,
another astronomical factor causes the time between two successive
upper transits of the moon across the local meridian of the place (a
period known as the lunar or "tidal" day) to exceed the 24 hours of
the earth's rotation period - the mean solar day. The moon revolves
in its orbit around the earth with an angular velocity of
approximately 12.2o per day, in the same direction in which the
earth is rotating on its axis with an angular velocity of 360o per
day. In each day, therefore, a point on the rotating earth must
complete a rotation of 360o plus 12.2o, or 372.2o, in order to
"catch up" with the moon. Since 15o is equal to one hour of time,
this extra amount of rotation equal to 12.2o each day would require
a period of time equal to 12.2o/15o x 60 min/hr., or 48.8 minutes -
if the moon revolved in a circular orbit, and its speed of
revolution did not vary. On the average it requires about 50 minutes
longer each day for a sublunar point on the rotating earth to regain
this position directly along the major axis of the moon's tidal
force envelope, where the tide-raising influence is a maximum. In
consequence, the recurrence of a tide of the same phase and similar
rise (see middle diagram of Fig. 6) would take place at an interval
of 24 hours 50 minutes after the preceding occurrence, if this
single astronomical factor known as lunar retardation were
considered. This period of 24 hours 50 minutes has been established
as the tidal day. A second astronomical factor influencing the time
of arrival of tides of a given phase at any location results from
the interaction between the tidal force envelopes of the moon and
sun. Between new moon and first-quarter phase, and between full moon
and third-quarter phase, this phenomenon can cause a displacement of
force components and an acceleration in tidal arrival times (known
as priming the tides) resulting in the occurrence of high tides
before the moon itself reaches the local meridian of the place.
Between first-quarter phase and full moon, and between third-quarter
phase and new moon, an opposite displacement of force components and
a delaying action (known as lagging of the tides) can occur, as the
result of which the arrival of high tides may take place several
hours after the moon has reached the meridian. These are the two
principle astronomical causes for variation in the times of arrival
of the tides. In addition to these astronomically induced
variations, the tides are subject to other accelerating or retarding
influences of hydraulic, hydrodynamic, hydrographic, and topographic
origin - and may further be modified by meteorological conditions.
The first factor of consequence in this regard arises from the fact
that the crests and troughs of the large-scale gravity-type
traveling wave system comprising the tides strive to sweep
continuously around the earth, following the position of the moon
(and sun).
In the open ocean, the actual rise (see middle diagram, Fig. 6) of
the tidally induced wave crest is only one to a few feet. It is only
when the tidal crests and troughs move into shallow water, against
land masses, and into confining channels, that noticeable variations
in the height of sea level can be detected.
Possessing the physical properties of a fluid, the ocean waters
follow all of the hydraulic laws of fluids. This means that since
the ocean waters possess a definite, although small internal
viscosity, this property prevents their absolute free flow, and
somewhat retards the overall movement of the tides.
Secondly, the ocean waters follow the principle of traveling waves
in a fluid. As the depth of the water shallows, the speed of forward
movement of a traveling wave is retarded, as deducted from dynamic
considerations. In shoaling situations, therefore, the advance of
tidal waters is slowed.
Thirdly, a certain relatively small amount of friction exists
between the water and the ocean floor over which it moves - again
slightly slowing the movement of the tides, particularly as they
move inshore. Further internal friction (or viscosity) exists
between tidally induced currents and contiguous current in the
oceans - especially where they are flowing in opposite directions.
The presence of land masses imposes a barrier to progress of the
tidal waters. Where continents interpose, tidal movements are
confined to separate, nearly closed oceanic basins and the sweeps of
the tides around the world is not continuous.
Topography on the ocean floor can also provide a restraint to the
forward movement of tidal waters - or create sources of local-basin
response to the tides. Restrictions to the advance of tidal waters
imposed both by shoaling depths and the sidewalls of the channel as
these waters enter confined bays, estuaries, and harbors can further
considerably alter the speed of their onshore passage.
In such particularly confined bodies of water, so-called "resonance
effects" between the free-period of oscillation of the traveling,
tidally induced wave and that of the confining basin may cause a
surging rise of the water in a phenomenon basically similar to the
action of water caused to "slosh" over the sides of a wash basin by
repeatedly tilting the basin and matching wave crests reflected from
the opposite side of the basin.
All of the above, and other less important influences, can combine
to create a considerable variety in the observed range and phase
sequence of the tides - as well as variations in the times of their
arrival at any location.
Of a more local and sporadic nature, important meteorological
contributions to the tides know as "storm surges", caused by a
continuous strong flow of winds either onshore or offshore, may
superimpose their effects upon those of tidal action to cause either
heightened or diminished tides, respectively. High-pressure
atmospheric systems may also depress the tides, and deep
low-pressure systems may cause them to increase in height.
Chapter 6
Prediction of the Tides
In the preceding discussions of the tide-generating forces, the
theoretical equilibrium tide produced, and factors causing
variations, it has been emphasized that the tides actually observed
differ appreciably from the idealized, equilibrium tide.
Nevertheless, because the tides are produced essentially by
astronomical forces of harmonic nature, a definite relationship
exists between the tide-generating forces and the observed tides,
and a factor of predictability is possible. Because of the numerous
uncertain and, in some cases, completely unknown factors of local
control mentioned above, it is not feasible to predict tides purely
from a knowledge of the positions and movements of the moon and sun
obtained from astronomical tables. A partially empirical approach
based upon actual observations of tides in many areas over an
extended period of time is necessary. To achieve maximum accuracy in
prediction, a series of tidal observations at one location ranging
over at least a full 18.6-year tidal cycle is required. Within this
period, all significant astronomical modifications of tides will
occur. Responsibility for computing and tabulating - for any day in
the year - the times, heights, and ranges of the tides - as well as
the movement of tidal currents - in various parts of the world is
vested in appropriate governmental agencies which devote both
theoretical and practical effort to this task. The resulting
predictions are based in large part upon actual observations of
tidal heights made throughout a network of selected observing
stations. The National Ocean Survey, a component of the National
Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration of the U.S. Department of
Commerce, maintains for this purpose a continuous control network of
approximately 140 tide gages which are located along the coasts and
within the major embayments of the United States, and it
possessions, and the United Nations Trust Territories under its
jurisdiction. Temporary secondary stations are also occupied in
order to increase the effective coverage of the control network.
Predictions of the times and heights of high and low water are
prepared by the National Ocean Survey for a large number of stations
in the United States and its possessions as well as foreign
countries and United Nations Trust Territories
|